Bare Root Perennials

There are many benefits to planting bare-root perennials over their potted counterparts. Here are some of the key advantages:

Cost-effective: Bare-root perennials are typically much cheaper than potted plants, as they require less packaging, storage, and transportation. This can be a significant advantage if you are planting a large area or are on a budget.

Healthier root systems: Bare-root perennials are not root-bound, which means their roots are able to develop freely and naturally. This leads to stronger, healthier plants that are more resistant to disease and drought.

Wider selection: Bare-root perennials are often available in a wider variety of species and cultivars than potted plants. This is because they are easier to store and ship, and growers can offer a wider selection without having to worry about the plants outgrowing their pots.

Earlier planting window: Bare-root perennials can be planted earlier in the spring than potted plants, as they are not susceptible to transplant shock. This gives them a head start in the growing season and allows them to establish themselves more quickly.

Environmentally friendly: Bare-root perennials require less packaging and transportation than potted plants, which reduces their environmental impact.

More control over planting: When you plant bare-root perennials, you have more control over the planting process. You can choose the exact location for each plant and ensure that the roots are properly positioned in the soil.

Potential for larger plants: Bare-root perennials often grow into larger, more mature plants than potted plants. This is because they have a more developed root system and are not limited by the size of a pot.

Overall, planting bare-root perennials is a great way to save money, get healthier plants, and enjoy a wider selection of varieties. If you are looking for an affordable and eco-friendly way to add beauty and color to your garden, bare-root perennials are a great option.

Here are some of the key characteristics of bare-root perennials:

No soil: As the name suggests, bare-root perennials are sold without any soil around their roots. They are dug up from the field while dormant, usually in late fall or early winter, and the soil is removed before packaging and shipping.

Dormant state: Bare-root perennials are sold in a dormant state, which means they have no leaves or flowers. This allows them to be shipped and stored without damage and makes them less susceptible to transplant shock when planted.

Compact size: Because they lack soil and foliage, bare-root perennials are much smaller and lighter than potted plants. This makes them easier and cheaper to ship and store.

Healthy root systems: Since they have not been confined to a pot, bare-root perennials typically have well-developed, healthy root systems. This gives them a strong foundation for growth and makes them more resistant to disease and drought.

Wider variety: Bare-root perennials are often available in a wider variety of species and cultivars than potted plants. This is because they are easier to store and ship, and growers can offer a wider selection without having to worry about the plants outgrowing their pots.

Early planting: Bare-root perennials can be planted earlier in the spring than potted plants, as they are not susceptible to transplant shock. This gives them a head start in the growing season and allows them to establish themselves more quickly.

More affordable: Bare-root perennials are typically much cheaper than potted plants, as they require less packaging, storage, and transportation.

Potential for larger plants: Bare-root perennials often grow into larger, more mature plants than potted plants. This is because they have a more developed root system and are not limited by the size of a pot.

Overall, bare-root perennials are a great option for gardeners who are looking for affordable, healthy, and diverse plants for their gardens. They require a little more care than potted plants when planting, but the rewards are well worth it.

Planting bare-root perennials is a rewarding experience, offering cost-effective and diverse options for your garden. While it requires a slightly different approach than planting potted plants, the process is straightforward and can be done successfully with a few key steps:

Preparation:

• Timing: Plant bare-root perennials during their dormant season, typically in late fall or early spring when the soil is workable but not frozen. Ideally, plant before new growth emerges.
• Soak the roots: Before planting, soak the bare roots in water for 30 minutes to an hour. This hydrates the roots and helps them establish themselves in the soil more easily.
• Prepare the planting site: Choose a location that suits the specific needs of your chosen perennials, considering sunlight, soil drainage, and mature plant size. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-18 inches to allow for good root development. Amend the soil with compost or organic matter to improve drainage and fertility.

Planting:

• Dig the hole: Dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root system of your perennial. Aim for a depth where the crown (the point where the roots meet the stem) sits slightly below the soil surface when planted.
• Position the plant: Gently spread out the roots in the hole, ensuring they are not bunched up or circling. Position of the plant crown - level with, or slightly above, or below the surrounding soil varies depending on plant variety.
• Backfill the hole: Fill the hole with soil, gently firming it around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets. Avoid burying the crown too deeply.
• Water thoroughly: Water the newly planted perennial deeply to settle the soil and ensure good moisture around the roots.

Aftercare:

• Mulch: Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
• Water regularly: Water your newly planted perennials regularly, especially during dry periods, until they are established. Gradually reduce watering as the roots become established.
• Monitor and fertilize: Keep an eye on your perennials for signs of disease or pests. Fertilize lightly according to the specific needs of the plant.

Additional tips:

If planting multiple bare-root perennials at once, it can be helpful to lay them out on the ground before planting to ensure proper spacing and avoid root overcrowding.

For larger bare-root perennials, create a mound of soil in the center of the hole to support the plant and encourage the roots to grow outward.

Bare-root perennials may take some time to establish themselves and reach their full blooming potential. Be patient and provide proper care to ensure healthy growth.

By following these steps and providing proper care, you can successfully plant and enjoy the beauty and diversity of bare-root perennials in your garden.

The ideal soil level for a perennial plant crown depends on several factors, including the specific type of perennial and its growing habits. Here's a breakdown:

General rule:

• For most perennials: The crown should be positioned level with the surrounding soil surface.
• Exceptions: Some specific types of perennials prefer slightly different positioning.

Variations based on plant type:

• Plants that form rosettes: These prefer the crown to be slightly above the soil level. Examples include hens and chicks, agaves, and some succulents.
• Plants with bulbs or corms: These typically need the crown below the soil surface, with the depth varying depending on the species. Follow specific planting instructions for each type.
• Tap-rooted plants: These have a single deep root and prefer the crown at or slightly below the soil surface. Examples include coneflowers and hollyhocks.

Additional considerations:

• Climate: In colder climates, planting the crown slightly deeper can provide some winter protection.
• Soil type: In heavy clay soils, planting the crown slightly higher can help prevent waterlogging.
• Drainage: Ensure the planting site has good drainage to avoid crown rot, regardless of the specific positioning.

Tips for determining the correct position:

• Consult your specific plant variety's label or growing guide for detailed planting instructions.
• Observe established plants of the same type in your region to see how they are planted.
• When unsure, err on the side of planting the crown slightly higher than level to avoid potential rot.

Remember, proper planting is crucial for the health and longevity of your perennials. By considering these factors and following the correct planting techniques, you can ensure your plants thrive and bring beauty to your garden for years to come.

·Agastache - Crown should be planted even with soil line.

·Allium - Place crown just at or slightly below soil level.

·Amsonia - Place the crown about one half inch below the soil surface.

·Aquilegia - Place crown at soil level. 

·Artemisia - Place crown just below soil line.

·Asclepias - Plant 'high' so crown protrudes above soil line for bare root.

·Astilbe - Plant astilbe so the crown of the plant sits just below the soil line.

·Baptisia - Plant crown just below soil surface for bare root.

·Belamcanda - Plant bare root tubers slightly below the soil line.

·Buddleia - Plant so the crown is at least an inch above the normal soil level. Mound some of the soil up around the crown to create a small hill that slopes away from the plant to assist water drainage.

·Calamagrostis - Plant the crown level with the soil line.

·Campanula - Plant the crown level with the soil line.

·Clematis - Dig a hole that is deeper than the root ball, and then position the plant’s crown about 2" below the soil line.

·Convallaria - Dig a hole deep enough for the roots and situate the plant with the crown about an inch below the soil surface.

·Coreopsis - Plant the crown level with the soil line.

·Crocosmia - 3-6 inches below soil line.

·Delphinium - Place crown at or just below soil surface.

·Dicentra - Place the crown of the plant about 1” below the surrounding soil.

·Echinacea - Plant crown even with the soil line.

·Echinops - Plant bare root with the crown at the soil line.

·Epimedium - Crown should be planted slightly below soil line.

·Eucomis - Plant the bulb 2.5 times the depth of the bulb.

·Euphorbia - Crown should be planted even with soil line.

·Geranium - Bare root crown slightly below soil line.

·Gypsophila - Place crown at or slightly higher than the soil level.

·Helictotrichon - The crown (where the roots meet the plant) should be just slightly below the soil line.

·Heliopsis - Plant crown even with soil line.

·Hemerocallis / Daylilies - Set the daylily in the hole with the crown of the plant is 1” below the soil line.

·Hibiscus - Crown should be at or just above soil level.

·Hostas - Position the crown 1” below the natural soil line.

·Iberis - Place crown just below soil surface.

·Iris - Plant the crown about an inch below the soil surface. When planting bearded iris, the rhizomes should be positioned horizontally and remain partially exposed to the sun. For other types, position the crown of the plant about 1½” below the soil surface. Bulbs should be planted 4 to 5” deep, depending on type.

·Kniphofia - Position the crown at or just slightly below the soil line. If the crown is planted too deeply it will be vulnerable to rot.

·Lagerstroemia - Plant crown even with soil line.

·Liatrus - Plant bare root corms with the top right at the soil surface, just barely covered with soil.

·Ligularia - Plant crown even with soil line.

·Monarda - Plant crowns at soil level or just below.

·Nepeta - Place crown of plant just below soil level.

·Pennisetum - Place crown at the soil level.

·Peonies - Set peony root in the hole so the eyes (the growing tips) are positioned no more than 1” below the soil line. When peonies are planted too deeply, the plants will grow but may refuse to bloom. Cover the root with soil and water as needed.

·Perovskia - Plant bare root crown slightly below soil line.

·Phlox - Place the crown at the soil line.

·Platycodon - Tap root needs to be planted high. The upper bulkier part of the root should protrude about 1 inch above the soil line once the soil settles.

·Polygonatum - Eyes should be slightly below the soil line.

·Rudbeckia - Place crown just below soil surface.

·Salvia - Plant crown even with soil level.

·Sedum - Place crown just at or below soil level.

·Sempervivum - Place crown at soil level.

·Sisyrinchium - Place crown at soil level.

·Thymus - Plant bare root with foliage on the top of the soil and fine root system underneath.

·Tradescantia - Plant crown slightly below the soil line.

·Veronica - Place bareroot at soil level or slightly higher.

·Yucca - Plant with the crown at soil line. Tubers should not be exposed.

Perennial plants can have a variety of root systems, depending on the specific species. Here are the three main types you'll encounter:

• Fibrous roots: These are the most common type of root system in perennials. They consist of a dense network of fine, branching roots that spread out from the base of the plant. This type of root system is efficient at absorbing water and nutrients from the soil. Examples of perennials with fibrous roots include daylilies, hostas, and asters.
• Taproot: This type of root system has one main central root that grows deep into the soil. Taproots are good for anchoring plants in dry or windy conditions and for accessing water from deeper soil layers. However, they can make it difficult to transplant these plants. Examples of perennials with taproots include dandelions, carrots, and foxgloves.
• Rhizome: This is a horizontal underground stem that grows just below the surface of the soil. It can send out roots and shoots from its nodes. Rhizomes are good for spreading plants and storing energy for winter dormancy. They also allow for easy division and propagation. Examples of perennials with rhizomes include irises, ferns, and ginger.

Other less common types:

• Tuber: A thickened underground stem that stores starch and nutrients. Examples include dahlias and potatoes.
• Bulb: A modified bud with fleshy scales that store food and moisture. Examples include tulips and daffodils.
• Corms: Similar to bulbs but with solid stems and more irregular shapes. Examples include gladioli and crocuses.

It's important to note that some perennials might have combinations of these root systems. For example, a plant might have a main taproot with fibrous roots branching off from it.

Knowing the type of root system your perennial has will help you understand its needs and provide the best care for it. For example, plants with taproots need deep watering, while those with fibrous roots need more frequent watering but in smaller amounts.

Here is how to care for your bare-root perennials after planting:

Watering:

• Early stages: Water regularly, especially during dry periods, until the roots are established (typically 4-6 weeks). Aim for deep watering that reaches the root zone, not just the surface.
• Established plants: Once established, water deeply when the top few inches of soil feel dry. Adjust watering based on weather conditions and plant needs.

Mulching:

• Apply mulch 2 to 3 inches away from the base of the plant to:
• Retain moisture.
• Suppress weeds.
• Regulate soil temperature.
• Protect roots from winter cold (especially for newly planted perennials)
• Renew mulch as needed throughout the growing season.

Feeding:

• Newly planted: Avoid fertilizing for the first few weeks to allow roots to establish.
• Established plants: Fertilize lightly according to the specific needs of the plant. Generally, a balanced organic fertilizer once or twice a year is sufficient. Avoid excessive fertilization, which can encourage weak growth and disease.

Other care:

• Deadheading: Regularly remove spent flowers to encourage continued blooming and prevent seed formation.
• Dividing: Some perennials may need dividing every few years if they become overcrowded. This involves digging up the plant, dividing the root ball, and replanting the divisions in new locations.
• Winter protection: For tender perennials or in harsh climates, provide additional winter protection with mulch, straw, or burlap.
• Monitor for pests and diseases: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of pests or diseases and take appropriate action if necessary.

Additional tips:

• Different types of perennials have varying needs. Research the specific requirements of your chosen varieties for optimal care.
• Observe your plants and adjust your care routine based on their growth and performance.

With proper care, your bare-root perennials will thrive and add beauty and color to your garden for years to come!

The best time to plant bare-root perennials depends on two main factors: the type of perennial and your specific location.

Spring: Plant in early spring, typically between March and May when the soil is workable but not frozen.

Fall: Plant in early fall, typically between September and October when soil temperatures are still warm (around 55-75°F).

Fall planting is often recommended for better root development before winter.

Local weather conditions: Monitor your local weather forecast to avoid planting during periods of extreme temperatures or heavy rain.

Specific needs of your chosen perennials: Always research the individual needs of your chosen perennials, as some may have specific planting preferences.

By considering these factors, you can choose the best time to plant your bare-root perennials for optimal success in your garden.