Hillsides

The "Why" - The Key Criteria for Slope Success:

Before listing plants, it is essential to understand why certain plants excel on slopes. These are the critical characteristics:

• Strong, Deep, or Spreading Root Systems: This is the most important factor. Roots act like a natural net, holding soil particles together and preventing erosion. We are looking for fibrous roots, taproots, rhizomes (underground stems that spread), or stolons (above-ground stems that root).
• Drought Tolerance (Once Established): Slopes tend to drain quickly, making them drier environments. Plants that can handle periods of dryness are crucial. Note the "once established" – even drought-tolerant plants need regular watering until their roots are well-developed.
• Low Maintenance: Slopes can be difficult to access, so plants that do not require frequent pruning, deadheading, or dividing are ideal.
• Adaptability: Slopes can have varying conditions (sun, shade, soil type). Plants that can tolerate a range of conditions are more likely to thrive.
• Ground-Covering or Clumping Habit: Plants that spread or form dense clumps help to cover the soil surface, further reducing erosion and suppressing weeds.

Top Perennial Choices, Categorized:

Here is a breakdown of excellent choices, categorized by their growth habit, with explanations of why they are well-suited:

1. Groundcovers (The Soil Stabilizers):

These are the workhorses of erosion control.

• Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata):
• Why: Forms a dense, mat-like cover that smothers weeds and holds soil exceptionally well. Its shallow, fibrous roots spread quickly. It is also drought-tolerant and provides beautiful spring blooms.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.
• Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis and other low-growing Juniper species):
• Why: Extremely tough, evergreen, and incredibly drought-tolerant. Its extensive, fibrous root system is superb for erosion control. Comes in various colors (green, blue, gold).
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil. Avoid planting near walkways due to its potentially prickly texture.
• Vinca Minor (Periwinkle):
• Why: Evergreen foliage provides year-round cover. Tolerates shade and a wide range of soil conditions. Spreads readily via stolons.
• Best For: Part shade to full shade (can tolerate some sun). Caution: Can be aggressive; best used where it can be contained.
• Sedum (Stonecrop, various low-growing species like Sedum spurium, Sedum album, Sedum reflexum):
• Why: Extremely drought-tolerant succulents that thrive in poor, well-drained soil. They spread by rooting stems and form dense mats. Many varieties offer interesting foliage colors and textures.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.
• Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese Spurge):
• Why: Forms a dense, evergreen carpet in shady areas. Tolerates dry shade, a common condition under trees on slopes. Spreads via rhizomes.
• **Best For:** Part shade to full shade, well-drained soil.
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• Ajuga (Bugleweed):
• Why: Spreads quickly via stolons, forming a dense groundcover. Attractive foliage (often with purple, bronze, or variegated leaves) and blue flower spikes in spring.
• Best For: Full sun to part shade, well-drained soil. Caution: Can be invasive in some regions; check local restrictions.
• Liriope (Lilyturf):
• Why: Clumping and spreading grasslike plant. Spreads by rhizomes.
• Best for: Sun or shade.

2. Ornamental Grasses (The Deep-Rooted Anchors):

Grasses are fantastic for erosion control due to their deep, fibrous root systems.

• Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum):
• Why: A North American native grass with a very deep and extensive root system. Adaptable to a wide range of conditions, including drought. Provides excellent erosion control and beautiful, airy flower plumes.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil. Many cultivars offer different heights and colors.
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium):
• Why: Another North American native with a strong, fibrous root system. Beautiful blue-green foliage that turns reddish-bronze in the fall. Very drought-tolerant.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.
• Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster'):
• Why: Upright, clumping habit (does not spread aggressively). Early bloomer with attractive, feathery plumes. Provides good vertical interest and a strong root system, though not as deep as switchgrass or little bluestem.
• Best For: Full sun to part shade, prefers moist, well-drained soil (less drought-tolerant than the others).
• Blue Fescue(Festuca Glauca)
• Why: Low-growing clumping grass, with striking blue foliage.
• Best for: Well-drained soil.

3. Flowering Perennials (For Added Beauty and Pollinator Support):

While erosion control is the primary goal, adding flowering perennials brings color and supports pollinators. Focus on those with strong root systems.

• Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.):
• Why: Deep taproots make them drought-tolerant and good for holding soil. Beautiful, long-lasting flowers attract pollinators. Native to North America.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.
• Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta):
• Why: Adaptable, cheerful yellow flowers, and a fibrous root system that helps with erosion control. Native to North America.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.
• Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.):
• Why: Many daylily varieties have strong, fibrous roots that help bind the soil. They are also relatively low-maintenance and come in a vast array of colors and bloom times.
• Best For: Full sun to part shade, well-drained soil. Choose varieties carefully, as some are more vigorous spreaders than others.
• Blanket Flower (Gaillardia spp.):
• Why: Long-blooming, drought-tolerant, and attractive to pollinators. Has a taproot and fibrous roots.
• Best For: Full sun, well-drained soil.

4. Native Shrubs (For Larger Slopes and Long-Term Stability):

For larger slopes, incorporating native shrubs can be very beneficial. Their extensive root systems provide excellent long-term erosion control. Research shrubs native to your specific region. Some general examples include:

• Sumac (Rhus spp.): Often have excellent fall color and spreading root systems.
• Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica): Tolerates poor soil and provides berries for birds.
• Low-growing or spreading Cotoneasters and Viburnums: (Again, check for native species in your area).
• Leadplant (Amorpha canescens): A prairie native with very deep roots.

Key Takeaways and Action Steps:

• Prioritize Roots: Always consider the root system first when selecting plants for slopes.
• Match Plants to Conditions: Assess your slope's sun exposure, soil type, and drainage, and choose plants accordingly.
• Go Native When Possible: Native plants are generally the best choice for long-term success and ecosystem support.
• Establishment is Crucial: Water regularly until plants are well-established, even drought-tolerant ones.
• Consider Erosion Control Measures: Use erosion control blankets, netting, or straw mulch during the establishment phase, especially on steeper slopes.

By carefully selecting and planting the right perennials, you can transform a challenging slope into a beautiful, stable, and thriving landscape.

Sloping gardens can be a breathtaking feature, offering dynamic visual interest and unique opportunities. But they also present a unique set of challenges. Forget struggling with annuals that wash away with the first heavy rain! The secret to success on a slope lies in choosing the right perennial plants. This article will guide you through everything you need to know, address what you should consider, and ultimately help you achieve what every gardener wants: a thriving, beautiful, and low-maintenance garden, even on the most challenging incline.

What Gardeners Want (and Deserve!):

Let us be honest, what we all crave as gardeners is:

• Beauty: A visually stunning garden with vibrant colors, interesting textures, and year-round appeal.
• Low Maintenance: Plants that practically take care of themselves, minimizing weeding, watering, and fussing.
• Erosion Control: A landscape that stays put, without the constant worry of soil washing away.
• Wildlife Attraction: A garden that welcomes butterflies, bees, and birds, creating a thriving ecosystem.
• Value for Money: Plants that are a good investment, returning year after year with increasing beauty.

Perennials, when chosen wisely, can deliver all of this on a slope!

What Gardeners Need to Know: The Fundamentals of Slopes

Before you even think about plant names, you need to understand the specific conditions of your slope:

1. The Angle of the Slope: A gentle slope is far easier to work with than a steep one. Very steep slopes may require terracing or retaining walls before planting. This is a fundamental structural consideration.
2. Sun Exposure: How much sun does the slope receive throughout the day? Is it full sun (6+ hours), part shade (4-6 hours), or full shade (less than 4 hours)? This dictates your plant choices. Note that different parts of the slope may have different exposures.
3. Soil Type and Drainage: Slopes often have excellent drainage (sometimes too good!), but the soil can be compacted, rocky, or poor in nutrients. A soil test is highly recommended. Amend the soil with compost to improve its structure and fertility.
4. Water Runoff: Understand how water flows down the slope. You may need to create small swales or terraces to slow down the water and prevent erosion.
5. Accessibility: How will you reach all parts of the slope for planting and maintenance? Consider pathways or stepping stones.
6. Existing Conditions: Note any existing features, problems, or hazards.

What Gardeners Should Consider: Choosing the Right Perennials

Now for the exciting part – choosing your plants! Here is what you should keep in mind:

• Root Systems are King: Prioritize plants with deep, fibrous, or spreading root systems. These are your erosion-control heroes. Think of them as nature's rebar, holding the soil together.
• Growth Habit: Consider the mature size and shape of the plant.
  • Groundcovers: Low-growing, spreading plants are ideal for filling in gaps and suppressing weeds. Look for options like Creeping Phlox, Creeping Juniper, or Vinca Minor (but be aware of its potential invasiveness).
  • Upright Plants: Taller perennials can add vertical interest, but make sure they have strong stems and will not easily flop over. Ornamental grasses like Switchgrass and Little Bluestem are excellent choices.
  • Clumping vs. Spreading: Clumping plants stay in a defined area, while spreading plants will gradually expand. Choose spreading plants strategically to cover ground quickly.
• Drought Tolerance: Once established, many perennials are surprisingly drought-tolerant, which is a huge advantage on slopes where water tends to run off quickly. Look for plants labeled as "drought-tolerant" or "xeric."
• Bloom Time: Stagger bloom times to ensure continuous color throughout the growing season.
• Native Plants are Your Friends: Native plants are adapted to your local climate and soil conditions, requiring less maintenance and supporting local wildlife. Research native options for your region.
• Plant Placement: Consider how plants look from all angles, as a slop will likely be visible form more than one location.

Top Perennial Picks for Slopes (Examples – Adapt to Your Region):

• Groundcovers:

• • Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) – Full sun, spring blooms, excellent erosion control.
  • Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) – Full sun, tough, drought-tolerant.
  • Sedum (various species) – Full sun, drought-tolerant, diverse foliage and flower colors.
  • Ajuga (Bugleweed) – Sun to part shade, fast-spreading, colorful foliage.
  • Pachysandra – Shade-loving, evergreen, forms a dense mat.

• Ornamental Grasses:

• • Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) – Native, adaptable, beautiful plumes.
  • Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Native, blue-green foliage, reddish-bronze fall color.
  • Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster') – Upright, early bloomer.

• Flowering Perennials

• • Coneflowers (Echinacea spp)
  • Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)
  • Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

• Shrubs: (Use native varieties where possible)

• • Sumac (Rhus)
  • Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)
  • Cotoneaster (low growing cultivars)

Planting and Maintenance Tips:

• Planting Time: Spring or fall is generally best for planting perennials.
• Proper Planting Technique: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Amend the soil with compost. Water thoroughly after planting.
• Erosion Control During Establishment: Use erosion control blankets or straw mulch to protect the soil while the plants are getting established.
• Watering: Water deeply and regularly until the plants are established. Even drought-tolerant plants need consistent moisture initially.
• Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch (shredded bark, wood chips, or compost) to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and moderate soil temperature.
• Ongoing Care: Minimal pruning and deadheading may be required, depending on the plants you choose. Fertilize sparingly, if at all, especially with native plants.

A sloping garden does not have to be a source of frustration. By understanding the unique challenges and choosing the right perennial plants, you can transform your slope into a stunning, low-maintenance landscape that you will enjoy for years to come. Embrace the slope, and let your garden thrive!

Planting on a slope presents unique challenges and opportunities. Before you even pick up a shovel, it is crucial to understand the specific conditions of your hillside. This will inform your plant choices, erosion control strategies, and overall garden design.

1. Assessing Your Slope: Understanding the Lay of the Land

Before planting, thoroughly assess your slope. Consider the following:

• Gradient (Steepness):

• • Slope is measured as rise over run (vertical change over horizontal distance). This can be expressed as a ratio (e.g., 1:12) or a percentage (e.g., 8.33% for a 1:12 slope).
  • Gentle Slopes (<5% or 1:20): Generally, pose few planting challenges related to the slope itself.
  • Moderate Slopes (8-16% or 1:12 to 1:6): Require careful plant selection and watering strategies. These slopes can be difficult to navigate.
  • Steep Slopes (20% or 1:5 and greater): Demand specialized planting techniques and erosion control.
  • Very Steep Slopes (30% or 1:3 and greater): Unsuitable for mowing; require groundcovers or other non-turf plantings.
  • Extreme Slopes (50% or 1:2): Often considered the maximum steepness for sustainable plant growth.

• Soil and Drainage:

• • Hillsides are often well-drained, sometimes excessively so. Drought-tolerant plants are often a good choice.
  • Observe soil conditions. Note wetter areas (often at the base) and drier areas (usually higher up).
  • Identify existing erosion signs (gullies, exposed soil). These areas need modification to redirect water flow.
  • Analyze soil composition (rocky, sandy, clay-rich, organic). This significantly impacts plant selection.

• Growing Conditions:

• • Sunlight: Is the slope sunny, shady, or partially shaded?
  • Wind: Is the slope exposed to strong prevailing winds or sheltered?
  • Matching plants to these conditions minimizes maintenance on a potentially difficult-to-access site.

• Existing Vegetation:

• Assess current plants. Common issues include:
  • Turfgrass (difficult and dangerous to mow on inclines).
  • Annuals (provide little erosion control in winter/early spring).
  • Invasive species (threaten surrounding areas).

• Removal Strategy:
• For turf, consider killing it in place (e.g., with glyphosate) to stabilize the soil. Plant new vegetation directly through the dead turf, which acts as a temporary mulch.

2. Erosion Control: Keeping Your Soil in Place

Erosion is a major concern on slopes. Implement these strategies:

• Terracing:
  • Create level planting areas using retaining walls, rocks, timbers, or other materials. This slows water runoff and provides stable planting pockets. Terracing can be as simple as a well-defined path.
• Covering the Soil:
  • Mulch: Apply a thick layer of coarse, angular mulch (shredded bark, leaf mold) to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and protect soil. Avoid smooth mulches like river rock, which can wash away.
  • Dense Planting: Use plants with foliage at various heights to break up raindrops. Groundcovers are excellent, but layered plantings (trees, shrubs, perennials, groundcovers) are even more effective.
• Reducing Surface Water Flow:
  • Stagger Plantings: Avoid creating straight rows that channel water. Plant along contour lines or in staggered patterns.
  • Redirect Water: Divert water from driveways, downspouts, and other sources before it reaches the slope. Use swales (shallow trenches), drainage tile, or surface drains.

3. Choosing the Right Plants: Hillside-Friendly Species

Select plants that meet these criteria:

• Site Suitability: Match plants to the slope's light and soil conditions. Drought tolerance is often key.
• Low Maintenance: Choose plants that require minimal pruning, deadheading, or division.
• Diversity: A mix of species with varying growth habits and root systems provides better erosion control and visual interest.

4. Planting Design: Making the Most of the Slope

Slopes offer unique design possibilities:

• View from Below: Plants of similar heights are more easily visible. Place taller plants higher up the slope but avoid excessively tall plants that might dominate.
• View from Above: To preserve views, consider shorter plants at the top and taller ones lower down.
• Plant Forms: Weeping or cascading plants are particularly attractive on slopes. Vining plants add movement.

5. Planting Techniques: Establishing Your Garden

• Transplants vs. Seed:

• • Transplants (potted or bare-root): More expensive but establish faster and provide quicker ground cover. Less soil disturbance is needed.
  • Seed: More economical for large areas but requires more careful watering and erosion control during establishment.

• Planting Steps:

• • Plant at the correct depth (do not bury trunk flares or crowns).
  • Create a level planting area by mounding soil on the downhill side or using small retaining structures (stones, bricks, cardboard).
  • On moderate slopes, small plants (not trees) can be planted at a slight angle to ensure root ball coverage.

6. Watering: Getting Water to the Roots

• Drip Irrigation: The most efficient method for slopes, providing consistent moisture without runoff.
• Hand Watering: Water until runoff begins, then move to other plants and repeat. Create a small watering basin on the downhill side of each plant.
• Seeded Areas: Use a mist or low-flow sprinkler to avoid washing seeds away. Water in stages, allowing for absorption.

7. Maintenance: Keeping Your Hillside Thriving

• Weeding: Regular weeding is crucial, especially during establishment.
• Erosion Monitoring: Watch for signs of erosion and adjust water flow as needed.
• If low-maintenance plants, well-matched to site conditions, are selected, the long-term maintenance will be minimal.

Recommended Plants: The provided tables of grasses, herbaceous groundcovers, and herbaceous perennials are excellent. Consider adding a section for shrubs and small trees suitable for slopes, such as:

• Shrubs:

• • Juniperus horizontalis (Creeping Juniper) - Sun, drought-tolerant
  • Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' (Fragrant Sumac) - Sun, drought-tolerant
  • Cotoneaster species - Many varieties, adaptable
  • Forsythia (if pruned appropriately) - Adaptable, early bloom
  • Spiraea species - Many varieties, adaptable
  • Viburnum Many varieties, adaptable

Do you have a yard that resembles a ski slope more than a relaxing oasis? Steep hillsides can present a real challenge for homeowners and gardeners. Erosion, difficult access, and limited usable space are just a few of the problems. But do not despair! A tiered garden can transform that challenging slope into a beautiful, productive, and manageable landscape feature. This article will cover what you want, should, and need to know about creating a thriving tiered garden.

Let us start with the dream. Most people envision a tiered garden as:

• Visually Appealing: A cascade of plants, flowers, and possibly even small shrubs or trees, creating a visually dynamic and interesting landscape. Think of it as a living tapestry on your hillside.
• Increased Usable Space: Instead of a steep, unusable incline, you gain flat(ter) areas perfect for planting, relaxing, or even placing a small patio set.
• Reduced Erosion: Tiered walls and planting areas help hold the soil in place, preventing the damaging effects of runoff and erosion.
• Improved Drainage: Properly constructed tiers can manage water flow, preventing waterlogging at the bottom of the slope and directing water where it is needed.
• A Unique Garden Feature: A tiered garden adds character and depth to your landscape, setting it apart from the typical flat lawn.
• Easier Gardening: less stooping and bending.

What Homeowners and Gardeners Should Know Before Starting:

Before you grab your shovel, there are some crucial considerations:

• Slope Assessment: How steep is your slope? A gentle slope might only require a couple of low tiers, while a very steep hill will need more substantial, and potentially engineered, retaining walls. Measure the rise and run to calculate the slope percentage.
• Soil Type: What kind of soil do you have? Clay soil will require different drainage solutions than sandy soil. A soil test can provide valuable information about its composition and nutrient levels.
• Sunlight Exposure: How much sun does the slope receive? This will dictate what plants you can successfully grow in each tier. Observe the area throughout the day to determine if it is full sun (6+ hours), partial shade (4-6 hours), or full shade (less than 4 hours).
• Local Regulations: Check with your local municipality or homeowner's association (HOA) about any permits or regulations regarding retaining walls and landscaping. Some areas have height restrictions or require specific engineering plans for taller walls.
• Budget: Tiered gardens can range in cost depending on the materials used, the size of the project, and whether you hire professionals. Get quotes and create a realistic budget.

• Accessibility: Plan for how you will access each tier for planting, weeding, and harvesting. Steps or pathways incorporated into the design are essential.

What Homeowners and Gardeners Need to Create a Tiered Garden:

Now, let us get practical. Here is what you will need:

1. Planning & Design:

• Sketch: Draw a rough plan of your slope and show how you envision the tiers. Consider the height and width of each level, the placement of steps or paths, and the overall aesthetic.
• Materials List: Decide on your wall materials (see below) and calculate the quantity needed.
• Plant List: Choose plants suitable for your climate, soil, and sunlight conditions. Consider a mix of heights, textures, and bloom times for visual interest.

1. Materials for the Walls:

• Treated Lumber: A relatively inexpensive and easy-to-work-with option, but it will eventually rot and need replacing. Choose lumber rated for ground contact.
• Stone (Natural or Manufactured): Durable and aesthetically pleasing but can be more expensive and require more skill to install.
• Concrete Blocks (Retaining Wall Blocks): A sturdy and cost-effective option, often designed with interlocking systems for stability.
• Poured Concrete: The most durable option but typically requires professional installation.
• Gabions: Wire baskets filled with rocks. These are very stable and provide excellent drainage.
• Railroad Ties: (Use with caution): While they were once popular, creosote-treated railroad ties can leach chemicals into the soil. Look for newer, environmentally friendly alternatives.

1. Tools:

• Shovels (various sizes): For digging, moving soil, and backfilling.
• Level: Essential for ensuring your tiers are level. A long level (4-foot or longer) is best.
• Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
• Wheelbarrow: For transporting soil, rocks, and other materials.
• Tamper: For compacting the soil and base material.
• Gloves: To protect your hands.
• Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes.
• Optional (depending on materials): Saw (for lumber), hammer, chisel, masonry saw, concrete mixer.

1. Construction Steps (General Guidelines):

• Excavation: Start at the bottom of the slope and dig out the area for your first tier. Create a level base for the wall.
• Base Preparation: Lay a base of compacted gravel or crushed stone for drainage and stability. This is crucial for preventing the wall from settling or shifting.
• Wall Construction: Build the retaining wall according to the material manufacturer's instructions. Ensure each course is level and properly secured.
• Backfilling: Fill the area behind the wall with soil, compacting it in layers. Consider adding drainage material (gravel) behind the wall, especially with clay soils.
• Repeat: Continue these steps for each subsequent tier, working your way up the slope.
• Drainage: Ensure proper drainage by incorporating weep holes in the walls or installing a drainage pipe behind the wall.
• Planting: Once the tiers are built, amend the soil with compost or other organic matter and plant your chosen vegetation.

1. Planting a Tiered Garden:

• Choose the Right Plants: Select plants that are appropriate for your climate, soil type, and the amount of sunlight each tier receives.
  • Drought-Tolerant Plants: If your slope is in full sun and drainage is good, consider drought-tolerant options like succulents, sedums, lavender, and ornamental grasses.
  • Shade-Loving Plants: For shaded tiers, choose hostas, ferns, astilbe, and impatiens.
  • Trailing Plants: Use cascading plants like creeping phlox, trailing rosemary, or sweet potato vine to soften the edges of the walls and add visual interest.
  • Edible Plants: Tiered gardens are great for growing vegetables, herbs, and fruits. Consider strawberries, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs like thyme and oregano.
• Consider Plant Height and Spread: Place taller plants towards the back of each tier and shorter plants towards the front.
• Watering: Water deeply and less frequently, rather than shallowly and often. Consider installing a drip irrigation system for efficient watering.
• Maintenance: Mulch, Fertilize, weed, and provide pest control, as needed.

Important Considerations:

• Engineering: For very steep slopes or tall walls, consult with a landscape architect or structural engineer. They can assess the stability of the slope and design a safe and effective retaining wall system.
• Erosion Control During Construction: Use erosion control fabric or straw mulch to protect exposed soil during the building process.
• Long-Term Maintenance: Inspect your walls regularly for any signs of shifting, cracking, or damage. Address any issues promptly to prevent major problems.

A tiered garden is a significant undertaking, but the rewards are well worth the effort. By carefully planning, choosing the right materials, and following proper construction techniques, you can transform a challenging slope into a beautiful and functional outdoor space that you will enjoy for years to come. Good luck!

Tiered gardens offer a unique opportunity to create a landscape that is both visually stunning and structurally interesting. While annuals provide bursts of seasonal color, a foundation of carefully chosen perennials and ornamental grasses ensures long-term beauty, reduces maintenance, and provides year-round interest. This article focuses on what gardeners want, should, and need to know when selecting these enduring plants for their multi-level gardens.

What Gardeners Want from Perennials and Grasses in a Tiered Garden:

• Longevity: The appeal of perennials is their return year after year, establishing themselves and becoming more impressive over time.
• Year-Round Interest: Beyond flowers, gardeners want foliage texture, winter silhouettes, seed heads, and changing colors throughout the seasons.
• Low Maintenance (Once Established): Perennials and many grasses require less frequent replanting and generally less fuss than annuals.
• Adaptability to Tier Conditions: Plants that can handle the specific sun, drainage, and soil variations within the tiered structure.
• Movement and Sound (Grasses): The gentle sway and rustling of ornamental grasses add a dynamic, sensory element to the garden.
• Vertical Accents and Softening Effects: Grasses provide verticality, while both perennials and grasses can soften the hard edges of retaining walls.

What Gardeners Should Know Before Choosing Perennials and Grasses:

• Microclimate Mastery: Analyze each tier. Is it sunny, shady, or a mix? Does water drain quickly or linger? Is the soil shallow or deep? Is it exposed to wind? These factors are crucial for perennial success.
• Hardiness Zone: Ensure the plants you choose are hardy to your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone. Perennials need to survive your winter temperatures.
• Soil Testing: Understand your soil's pH and composition. Amend the soil as needed to suit your chosen plants. Most perennials prefer well-drained soil.
• Mature Size and Growth Habit: Avoid overcrowding. Research the ultimate size of each plant. Understand if it is a clumper, a spreader, upright, or cascading.
• Bloom Time (Perennials): Strive for a sequence of bloom throughout the growing season. Combine early, mid-season, and late bloomers.
• Foliage Interest: Do not just focus on flowers. Consider foliage color, texture, and shape for lasting appeal.
• Invasiveness: Research before planting.

Perennial and Grass Recommendations for Tiered Gardens:

Here is a breakdown of excellent choices, categorized by their role and characteristics:

1. Cascading Perennials (Spillers):

• Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata): Sun-loving, low-growing, vibrant spring blooms (pinks, purples, whites). Evergreen foliage.
• Sedum (low-growing varieties): Succulents; incredibly drought-tolerant. Choose varieties like Sedum spurium ('Dragon's Blood') or Sedum album for excellent texture and color.
• Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum): Fragrant, low-growing, tolerates light foot traffic. Tiny pink or purple flowers.
• Hardy Ice Plant (Delosperma): Bright, daisy-like flowers; excellent for hot, dry, sunny locations.
• Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium tomentosum):Silvery leaves.

2. Upright and Structural Perennials (Thrillers):

• Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea and hybrids): Drought-tolerant, attract pollinators, long bloom period. Many colors available.
• Daylilies (Hemerocallis hybrids): Wide range of colors and bloom times. Choose reblooming varieties for extended color.
• Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): Cheerful yellow daisies, long blooming season.
• Salvia (perennial varieties): Spikes of blue, purple, or red flowers; attract hummingbirds and butterflies.
• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Fragrant, drought-tolerant, attracts pollinators. Needs excellent drainage.
• Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): Silvery foliage, airy blue flower spikes; drought-tolerant and long-blooming.
• Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Fern-like foliage, flat-topped flower clusters in various colors.

3. Groundcover and Mid-Size Perennials (Fillers):

• Hostas (various species): Shade-loving; diverse foliage colors, textures, and sizes. Choose smaller varieties for tiers.
• Ferns (various species): Choose varieties appropriate for your light and moisture conditions. Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) and Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum') are excellent choices.
• Coral Bells (Heuchera): Grown primarily for their colorful foliage (purple, bronze, chartreuse, silver).
• Liriope (Liriope muscari): Grass-like foliage, good for edging and groundcover. Spikes of purple flowers.
• Lamb's Ear (Stachys byzantina): Soft, fuzzy, silver-gray foliage. Drought-tolerant.
• Astilbe: Good for shade.

4. Ornamental Grasses (For Movement, Texture, and Structure):

• Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Foerster'): Upright, narrow habit; early bloomer with feathery plumes.
• Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca): Compact, blue-gray foliage; good for edging or mass planting.
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium): Blue-green foliage turns reddish-bronze in fall; excellent for erosion control.
• Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum): Many varieties available, ranging in height and color. Offers beautiful fall color and winter interest. Choose cultivars like 'Shenandoah' (reddish foliage) or 'Heavy Metal' (blue-green foliage).
• Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides): Graceful, arching habit; fluffy flower plumes. Choose dwarf varieties like 'Hameln' for smaller tiers.
• Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra):
• Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis):

Design and Planting Tips:

• Group Plants in Odd Numbers: Groups of 3, 5, or 7 plants often look more natural than even numbers.
• Repeat Plants: Repeat key plants throughout the tiers to create visual cohesion.
• Consider the View from Above and Below: Your tiered garden will be viewed from multiple angles.
• Leave Room to Grow: Do not plant too closely. Allow space for plants to reach their mature size.
• Mulch: Use mulch to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature.
• Water Deeply and Less Frequently: Encourage deep root growth.
• Deadhead (some perennials): Deadheading spent flowers can encourage reblooming in some species.
• Cut back: Cut back grasses in late winter.

By focusing on perennials and ornamental grasses, you can create a tiered garden that is not only beautiful but also sustainable and relatively low-maintenance. The combination of lasting foliage, seasonal blooms, and the graceful movement of grasses will transform your sloped landscape into a dynamic and enduring masterpiece.

A gently sloping yard can present challenges for gardeners. Uneven ground makes planting difficult, watering can be inefficient, and soil erosion can be a persistent problem. But a steep hillside is not a prerequisite for a beautiful, functional terraced garden. Terracing a gentle slope offers a fantastic way to create level planting areas, improve drainage, and add visual interest to your landscape. This article will guide you through the process, focusing on what you want, should, and need to know to successfully terrace your yard.

• What Gardeners Want from a Terraced Garden (Gentle Slope):
  • Easier Planting and Maintenance: Flat surfaces are simply easier to work with than slopes. Planting, weeding, watering, and harvesting become less strenuous.
  • Improved Drainage: Terraces prevent water from running off quickly, allowing it to soak into the soil more effectively.
  • Reduced Soil Erosion: Level areas and strategically placed edging hold soil in place, preventing it from washing away.
  • Increased Usable Garden Space: Terraces create more flat areas for planting, expanding your gardening possibilities.
  • A Visually Appealing Landscape Feature: Terraces add structure and definition to the yard, creating a more organized and attractive space.
  • Ideal for Vegetable Gardens: The level beds are perfect for growing vegetables and herbs.

What Gardeners Should Know Before Terracing:

• Slope Assessment: Even a "gentle" slope needs careful evaluation. Determine the overall slope percentage (rise over run) and identify any areas with significant variations.
• Soil Type: Understand your soil's composition (clay, sand, loam) and drainage characteristics. This will influence your terracing approach and plant choices. A soil test is highly recommended.
• Sunlight Exposure: How much sun does the slope receive throughout the day? This will dictate what plants will thrive in each terrace.
• Water Source: Consider how you will water the terraces. Will you use a hose, sprinklers, or a drip irrigation system? Plan for easy access to water.
• Local Regulations: Check for any local ordinances or HOA rules regarding landscaping and earthmoving.
• Budget: Terracing can range from a simple DIY project to a more involved undertaking. Set a realistic budget based on materials and labor.

What Gardeners Need to Create Terraces:

• Planning and Design:
  • Sketch: Draw a plan of your slope and how you envision the terraces. Determine the width and number of terraces based on the slope's length and steepness. Aim for terraces that are wide enough to be easily accessible and workable (at least 2-3 feet wide).
  • Stake and String: Use stakes and string to mark out the edges of each terrace on the slope. This will help you visualize the layout and make adjustments as needed.
  • Materials List: Calculate the amount of soil you will need to move (cut and fill) and the materials you will need for edging (if using).
• Tools:
  • Shovels (round point and square point): For digging, moving soil, and shaping the terraces.
  • Spade: For edging and creating clean lines.
  • Level (long level is best): Essential for ensuring the terraces are level.
  • Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
  • Wheelbarrow: For transporting soil and materials.
  • Tamper: For compacting the soil. A hand tamper is sufficient for smaller projects; a plate compactor (rentable) is better for larger areas.
  • Garden Rake: For smoothing and leveling the soil.
  • Gloves: To protect your hands.
  • Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes.
  • Optional: Pickaxe (for breaking up hard soil), rototiller (for loosening soil), landscape fabric (for weed control).
• Construction Steps (Cut and Fill Method):
  • Mark the Terraces: Use stakes and string to clearly mark the outline of each terrace on the slope. Start at the top of the slope and work your way down.
  • Start at the Top: Begin with the highest terrace. Remove the topsoil from the area where you will be cutting (the uphill side of the terrace) and set it aside. This valuable topsoil will be used later.
  • Cut and Fill: Dig into the slope (the "cut") and move the excavated soil to the lower part of the terrace (the "fill"). The goal is to create a level surface.
  • Compact the Fill: This is crucial. Compact the fill soil in layers (6-8 inches at a time) using a tamper. Thorough compaction prevents settling and ensures the terrace's stability. Water each layer lightly before compacting.
  • Create a Slight Slope: Within each terrace, create a very slight slope (1-2%) from the back (the cut side) to the front (the fill side). This will help with drainage away from the back of the terrace. Use your level to check the slope.
  • Replace Topsoil: Once the terrace is level and compacted, spread the reserved topsoil evenly over the surface.
  • Edging (Optional but Recommended): Install edging along the front edge of the terrace to help define the level and prevent soil from spilling over. This can be done with landscape timbers, stones, bricks, or other materials. Ensure the edging is securely anchored.
  • Repeat: Continue these steps for each subsequent terrace, working your way down the slope.
  • Add Pathways: Mulch or gravel paths are good for walking.
• Planting and Maintenance:
  • Amend the Soil: Incorporate compost or other organic matter into the topsoil to improve fertility and drainage.
  • Choose the Right Plants: Select plants that are suitable for your climate, soil type, and the amount of sunlight each terrace receives. Consider a mix of perennials, annuals, vegetables, and herbs.
  • Groundcovers: Plant groundcovers on any remaining slopes within or between terraces to help prevent erosion.
  • Watering: Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth.
  • Mulching: Apply mulch to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature.
  • Weeding: Regularly remove weeds to prevent them from competing with your plants.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize as needed, based on the specific needs of your plants.

Key Considerations:

• Drainage: Proper drainage is essential. Ensure that water can flow away from the back of each terrace and does not pool.
• Erosion Control: Use mulch, groundcovers, or erosion control fabric to protect exposed soil, especially during construction.
• Accessibility: Plan for easy access to each terrace for planting, weeding, and harvesting. Consider incorporating paths or steps if needed.

Terracing a gentle slope is a rewarding project that can transform your yard into a more beautiful, functional, and productive space. By carefully planning, using proper techniques, and choosing the right plants, you can create a terraced garden that you will enjoy for years to come.

Transforming a hillside into a garden walk is a fantastic project that combines functionality with beauty. It creates a captivating journey through your landscape, offering changing perspectives and inviting exploration. Here is a comprehensive guide to planning and building your hillside garden walk:

1. Planning and Design (The Blueprint for Success):

• Define the Purpose: What do you want to achieve with the walk? Is it primarily for access, for highlighting plants, for creating a peaceful retreat, or a combination? This will influence the design.
• Map the Route:

• • Consider the Natural Contours: Work with the existing slope as much as possible. A meandering path that follows the natural curves is generally more aesthetically pleasing and less disruptive than a straight, steep one.
  • Gentle Slope: Aim for a gradual slope. A general rule of thumb is that for every 1 foot of rise you will want a gradual incline.
  • Switchbacks: For steeper slopes, use switchbacks (zig-zag paths) to reduce the grade and make the walk more comfortable. Switchbacks also create opportunities for interesting planting pockets and viewpoints.
  • Resting Areas: Incorporate level areas or landings along the path for resting, enjoying the view, or displaying special plants.
  • Vary the Width: Consider varying the width of the path. Wider sections can create a sense of spaciousness and allow for side-by-side walking, while narrower sections can feel more intimate.
  • Accessibility: Think about who will be using the walk. If accessibility is a concern, ensure the path is wide enough and the slope is gentle enough for wheelchairs or walkers.

• Views and Focal Points: Plan the walk to take advantage of views and create focal points along the way. This might include a specimen plant, a sculpture, a seating area, a water feature, or a particularly beautiful rock outcrop.
• Sunlight and Shade: Consider the sun exposure along the path. This will influence your plant choices.
• Drainage: Plan for how water will drain off the path and the surrounding hillside. You may need to incorporate swales, culverts, or other drainage solutions to prevent erosion.
• Materials: Choose materials for the path surface, steps (if needed), and any edging. Consider aesthetics, durability, cost, and maintenance.
• Create a Sketch: Draw a detailed plan of the walk, including the path layout, steps, retaining walls (if needed), planting areas, and any other features.

2. Path Construction:

• Path Materials:

• • Natural Stone: Flagstone, slate, or other natural stone creates a beautiful, durable, and timeless path. It can be expensive and labor-intensive to install.
  • Gravel: A more affordable and easier-to-install option. Use crushed stone or pea gravel for good drainage and stability. Requires edging to contain it.
  • Decomposed Granite (DG): A fine, compacted gravel that creates a more solid surface than loose gravel. Good for a natural look.
  • Wood Chips/Mulch: A soft, natural-looking option, but requires more frequent replenishment and can be slippery when wet. Not ideal for steeper slopes.
  • Pavers: Concrete, brick, or stone pavers offer a wide range of styles and colors. Durable and relatively easy to install.
  • Wood (Boardwalk): A good option for areas with poor drainage or for creating a raised walkway. Use rot-resistant wood (cedar, redwood, or treated lumber).

• Edging (Recommended):
• Purpose: Defines the path, prevents the path material from spreading, and creates a clean, finished look.
• Materials: Stone, brick, metal edging, pressure-treated lumber, plastic edging.
• Construction Steps:

1. Mark the Path: Use stakes and string or marking paint to outline the path on the hillside.
2. Excavate: Remove sod and topsoil to the desired depth for your path material. For gravel or DG, you will typically excavate 4-6 inches. For stone or pavers, you may need to excavate deeper to allow for a base layer.
3. Compact the Subgrade: Use a hand tamper or plate compactor to compact the soil at the bottom of the excavated area. This creates a stable base for your path.
4. Install Edging (if using): Secure the edging in place according to the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Add a Base Layer (for stone, pavers, or DG): A base layer of compacted gravel (typically 2-4 inches) provides drainage and stability.
6. Lay the Path Material: Install the chosen path material (stone, pavers, gravel, DG) according to the manufacturer's instructions or best practices for that material. Ensure proper spacing and leveling.
7. Compact (for gravel or DG): Use a plate compactor or hand tamper to compact the gravel or DG, creating a firm, even surface.
8. Topdress (for gravel or DG): Add a final layer of gravel or DG to fill in any gaps and create a finished look.
9. Steps (If Needed):

• Materials: Stone, wood, concrete, or pre-cast concrete steps.
• Rise and Run: The rise (height) and run (depth) of each step are crucial for comfort and safety. A general rule of thumb is a rise of 4-7 inches and a run of 11-18 inches. Consistency is key. All steps should have the same rise and run.
• Construction:
• Solid Foundation: Steps need a solid, level foundation. This may require excavating and adding a base layer of compacted gravel.
• Securely Anchor: Ensure steps are securely anchored to prevent movement. This may involve using mortar, concrete, or stakes, depending on the material.
• Drainage: Ensure proper drainage behind and around the steps to prevent water buildup.
• Handrails (Optional but Recommended): For steeper slopes or for added safety, consider installing handrails.

4. Retaining Walls (If Needed):

• Purpose: Retaining walls may be necessary to stabilize very steep sections of the slope or to create level areas for planting or seating.
• Materials: Stone, concrete blocks, treated timber, poured concrete.
• Construction: Retaining walls require careful engineering and construction. For walls over 4 feet tall, consult a professional engineer. Proper drainage behind the wall is essential to prevent failure.

5. Planting:

• Plant Selection:
• Erosion Control: Choose plants with strong, deep, or spreading root systems to help stabilize the soil.
• Drought Tolerance: Select plants that can tolerate dry conditions, as slopes tend to drain quickly.
• Sun Exposure: Match plants to the appropriate sun exposure (full sun, part shade, full shade).
• Aesthetics: Choose plants that complement the style of your garden and provide year-round interest (foliage, flowers, texture).
• Low Maintenance: Opt for plants that do not require frequent pruning or deadheading.
• Native Plants: Prioritize native plants whenever possible.
• Planting Techniques:
• Amend the Soil: Incorporate compost to improve soil structure and fertility.
• Plant on a Contour: Plant in rows across the slope (following the contour) to help slow down water runoff.
• Mulch: Apply a thick layer of mulch to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent erosion.

6. Lighting (Optional):

• Purpose: Low-voltage landscape lighting can enhance the beauty of the walk at night, improve safety, and extend the usability of the space.
• Types of Lighting:
• Path Lights: Illuminate the path surface.
• Step Lights: Illuminate steps for safety.
• Uplighting: Highlight trees, shrubs, or other features.
• Downlighting: Create a soft, ambient glow.

7. Ongoing Maintenance:

• Weeding: Weed regularly, especially in the first few years.
• Mulch Replenishment: Add mulch as needed to maintain a consistent layer.
• Pruning: Prune plants as needed to maintain their shape and size.
• Path Maintenance: Repair any damage to the path surface or edging.
• Drainage Inspection: Regularly check drainage systems to ensure they are functioning properly.

By carefully planning and executing each step, you can transform a challenging hillside into a beautiful and functional garden walk that you will enjoy for years to come. Remember to adapt the design and materials to your specific site conditions, preferences, and budget.