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Pachysandra
Shade-Loving Groundcovers
Some overlap, but also key differences between the cultivars.
- 'Green Carpet' Pachysandra:
- Dense, Mat-Forming Growth: Creates a thick, weed-suppressing carpet of dark green foliage.
- Shade-Loving: Thrives in partial to full shade, perfect for under trees and in other shady areas where grass struggles.
- Evergreen: Provides year-round groundcover, even in winter.
- Low Maintenance: Requires minimal care once established – very little pruning or fertilizing needed.
- Erosion Control: Helps stabilize soil on slopes and prevent erosion.
- Easy to Propagate: Spreads readily by rhizomes, allowing you to easily expand your planting.
- Deer Resistant: Generally, not favored by deer.
- 'Green Sheen' Pachysandra:
- Glossy, Dark Green Foliage: Features exceptionally shiny leaves that add a touch of elegance to the shade garden.
- Shade-Loving: Thrives in partial to full shade.
- Evergreen: Provides year-round interest.
- Low Maintenance: Requires minimal care once established.
- Erosion Control: Helps prevent soil erosion.
- Easy to Propagate: Spreads by rhizomes, though it may be slightly less aggressive than 'Green Carpet'.
- Deer Resistant: Generally, not bothered by deer.
Key Differences:
- 'Green Carpet': Known for its dense, mat-forming habit and slightly duller (but still attractive) foliage. Often considered a bit more vigorous.
- 'Green Sheen': Prized for its exceptionally glossy, reflective leaves. May be slightly slower-growing and less aggressive.
Light:
- Partial to full shade. Pachysandra will tolerate some morning sun, but avoid hot, direct afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves.
Soil:
- Well-drained, humus-rich soil is preferred.
- Pachysandra tolerates a range of soil types but performs best in slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0).
- Amend heavy clay soil with compost, peat moss, or other organic matter to improve drainage.
Watering:
- Establishment (First Year): Water regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
- After Establishment: Pachysandra is relatively drought-tolerant once established. Water deeply but less frequently, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.
- Water more frequently during periods of extreme heat or drought.
Planting (Bare Root):
- When to Plant: Early Spring (before new growth emerges) or fall.
- Soak Roots: Before planting, soak the bare roots in water for 1-2 hours to rehydrate them.
- Prepare the Hole: Dig a hole slightly larger than the root mass.
- Planting Depth: Plant the crown (where the roots meet the stem) at or just slightly above the soil surface. Avoid burying the crown too deep, as this can lead to rot.
- Spread Roots: Gently spread the roots out in the hole.
- Backfill: Fill the hole with the amended soil, firming it gently around the roots.
- Water Thoroughly: Water deeply after planting to settle the soil.
- Mulch: Apply a layer of organic mulch (shredded bark, leaf mold) around the plants, keeping it away from the crowns.
Planting (Potted Plants):
- Follow the same general steps as above, but you will not need to soak the roots.
- Gently loosen any circling roots before planting.
- Plant at the same depth the plant was growing in its container.
Spacing:
- Space plants 6-12 inches apart. Closer spacing will result in faster coverage.
Fertilizing:
- Pachysandra generally does not need much fertilizer if planted in rich, organic soil.
- If desired, apply a light feeding of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Avoid over-fertilizing.
Maintenance:
- Pruning: Minimal pruning is needed. You can trim the edges to maintain a neat appearance or to control spread.
- Weeding: Weed regularly, especially during the establishment period, until the Pachysandra forms a dense mat.
- Thinning: If the planting becomes overcrowded, you can thin it out in spring or fall by digging up and replanting sections.
Pests and Diseases:
- Generally, pest and disease-resistant.
- Watch out for slugs and snails, especially in damp conditions.
- Leaf blight (Volutella pachysandricola) can sometimes be a problem, especially in overly wet or crowded conditions. Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering if possible.
Winter Care:
- Pachysandra is hardy.
Important:
- Shade Tolerance
- Slow to Establish (Initially): It may take a year or two for Pachysandra to fully establish and spread.
Potential for Invasiveness: While generally well-behaved, Pachysandra terminalis can spread aggressively in ideal conditions. Be mindful of this when choosing a planting location. Consider using edging to help prevent spread to other parts of the landscape.
Pachysandra (pak-iss-sand-ruh), is a low growing ground covers, especially useful in shady locations where grass does poorly. Once established, pachysandra will make a thick durable ground cover under trees and on slopes. Plant in ordinary soil, but it needs more humus where summers are hot. The short spikes flowers, blooming in May and June, are greenish white and inconspicuous. White berries follow in late August and September.
Prefers a moist, well-drained, acidic, rich soil, but is tolerant of periodically dry soils, once established. Excellent performer in partial shade, full shade, or very deep shade, and will tolerate some sun in cooler climates.
Use pachysandra as a groundcover under shrubs or trees, as a border plant, or in mass plantings, grows in the shade even where grass does not grow. Lush foliage is beautiful year-round; but it is intolerant of foot traffic. Plant 6 inches to 12 inches apart and incorporate light mulch. Forms a solid mass as it slowly spreads by underground rhizomes. Prune to encourage new growth.