Perennial Basics

Annuals complete their entire life cycle in a single growing season. They germinate, grow, flower, produce seeds, and die all within one year. Examples include petunias, marigolds, and zinnias.  

Perennials live for more than two years. They typically die back to the ground in winter but return from their roots the following spring. Examples include roses, lavender, and hostas.  

The lifespan of a perennial can vary greatly. While the term "perennial" implies a plant that lives for more than two years, the reality is quite diverse.  

• Short-lived perennials: These might last for only a few years.  
• Long-lived perennials: Some can thrive for decades, even centuries.  

Factors like climate, soil conditions, and proper care can significantly impact a perennial's lifespan.

Here are some perennials known for their longevity:

Classic Choices:

• Peonies: Renowned for their long life and stunning blooms.
• Irises: Offer a variety of colors and can last for many years.
• Daylilies: Incredibly adaptable and long-lived.
• Hostas: Known for their shade tolerance and longevity.

Underrated Gems:

• Oriental poppies: Dramatic blooms and can live for decades.
• Catmint: Resilient and returns year after year.
• Sedum: Offers drought tolerance and long-lasting beauty.
• Coreopsis: Provides continuous bloom and can be long-lived.

Remember, proper care and suitable growing conditions are essential for maximizing the lifespan of your perennials.

Understanding Plant Needs

Just like people, plants have specific needs that must be met to thrive. Selecting plants that are well-suited to your garden's conditions is key to ensuring their success and minimizing maintenance. One of the most crucial factors to consider is soil drainage.

Soil Drainage: A Key Consideration

Most plants prefer moist, well-drained soil. If your soil drainage is less than ideal, either too slow or too fast, you can improve it to some extent by adding organic matter. However, it's often more efficient to start with plants that are naturally suited to your existing soil conditions.

Plants for Wet Soils

If your soil tends to stay damp most of the time, choose plants that can tolerate abundant moisture.

Plants for Dry Soils

For light or sandy soils that dry out quickly, drought-tolerant plants are the best choice.

The Good News: There's a Plant for Every Soil

Fortunately, there are plants that can thrive in both wet and dry conditions. By carefully considering your soil type and selecting plants that are well-suited to its characteristics, you can create a beautiful and low-maintenance garden.

Climate & Growing Zone:

• Research your growing zone: This will determine which plants are best suited to your local climate.
• Consider temperature extremes: Are summers hot and dry, or winters cold and snowy?
• Check for specific plant requirements: Some plants need specific temperature ranges to thrive.

Landscaping Goals:

• Define your purpose: Do you want to create a colorful border, a low-maintenance ground cover, or a pollinator garden?
• Consider the overall style: Choose plants that complement your garden's aesthetic (e.g., cottage garden, modern, or native plants).
• Think about size and spacing: Ensure plants will fit the available space and will not outgrow their area.

Useful, Pretty, Low Maintenance:

• Balance aesthetics and practicality: Consider plants that are both visually appealing and functional (e.g., pollinator-friendly, edible, or drought-tolerant).
• Prioritize low maintenance: If you are short on time, choose plants that require minimal pruning, watering, or fertilization.
• Research plant characteristics: Consider factors like bloom time, foliage color, and growth habit.

Soil Type:

• Test your soil: Determine its pH (acidic, neutral, or alkaline) and texture (sandy, loamy, or clay).
• Choose plants accordingly: Some plants prefer acidic soil, while others thrive in alkaline conditions. Texture also affects moisture retention and drainage.

Weather Patterns:

• Consider rainfall and drought: Choose plants that can tolerate your local precipitation levels.
• Think about wind and humidity: Some plants are more susceptible to wind damage or fungal diseases in humid environments.

Local Extension Office:

• Seek expert advice: Contact your local extension office for specific recommendations based on your region.
• Learn about local pests and diseases: They can provide information on common problems and preventive measures.
• Get advice on soil testing and plant care: Extension agents can offer guidance on soil amendments and proper care practices.

By carefully considering these factors, you can select perennial plants that are not only beautiful but also well-suited to your garden's unique conditions.

The best times to plant perennials are spring and fall.  

Fall Planting - Some say perennials can be planted anytime until the ground freezes. We recommend planting at least 30 days before the first hard frost, to allow new feeder roots to get established before the ground freezes. 

Fall is an excellent time to plant perennials. The warm soil conditions encourage robust root development, providing plants with a strong foundation for vigorous growth the following spring. This is especially beneficial for spring-blooming perennials, including those purchased as bare roots. By giving these plants, a head starts in the fall, you can expect fuller blooms and healthier plants come springtime.

Spring blooming perennials, especially bare root, are best planted early in the fall. Fall planting, while the soil is still warm, allows roots time to establish. Thus, plants emerge with well-established roots, providing a stronger start next spring.

Remember, it's essential to consider your local climate, frost dates and each plant's needs for the best outcomes.

Spring Planting

• Warmer soil temperatures  
• Longer days for sunlight  
• Ample rainfall in many regions  

Fall Planting

• Cooler temperatures reduce plant stress  
• Allows roots to establish before winter  
• Often better for plant establishment overall  

However, it's important to consider your specific climate. Some regions might have more favorable planting times than others. Always check local weather conditions before planting.  

Spring Planting

• Pros:
• Immediate visual gratification as plants begin to grow quickly.
• Ideal for impatient gardeners.
• Good for annuals and vegetables.
• Cons:
• Competition with established plants for resources.
• Potential for transplant shock if weather is too hot or dry.

Fall Planting

• Pros:
• Plants have time to establish roots before the busy growing season.
• Often results in healthier, more vigorous plants the following year.
• Less competition from established plants.
• Cons:
• Requires planning ahead.
• Risk of frost damage, although less likely in milder climates.

Generally, fall planting is often considered the better option for perennials. It allows them to establish a strong root system before the demands of the growing season. However, the best time to plant will ultimately depend on your specific climate and the type of perennials you're planting.

Knowing the average date of the last spring frost in your area is crucial for planning your garden and avoiding damage to frost-sensitive plants. Know your hardiness zone’s first and last frost date. These are recommended dates you should consider before planting in the spring or fall. If planting too early you could be at risk of a late freeze which would kill tender plants in the spring. Avoid these freeze temperatures that will affect your plant's early growth.

There are different “levels” of frost. The Almanac splits them up into three sections:

• A light freeze occurs between 29 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
• A moderate freeze is defined as temperatures within the range of 25 to 28 degrees Fahrenheit.
• A hard frost is when temperatures fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit.

Some plants, usually those native to colder climates, will fare well with a light freeze. However, it can also easily kill more delicate plants. When in doubt, wait it out. Damage to plants happens faster, and is more severe, as the temperature falls. Colder weather often includes wind and precipitation. These can contribute greatly to frost damage, especially when the plant is already in a weakened state.

Freeze warnings are issued in fall as the first frost and freeze conditions begin to appear and can occur in early spring as well. Use the information below to find the estimated dates for first frost and last frost in your USDA zone.

First and Last Frost Dates

USDA Zone 1

• Last Frost Date: June 15
• First Frost Date: July 1
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 30

USDA Zone 2

• Last Frost Date: May 15
• First Frost Date: August 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 90

USDA Zone 3

• Last Frost Date: May 15
• First Frost Date: September 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 120

USDA Zone 4

• Last Frost Date: May 15
• First Frost Date: September 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 120

USDA Zone 5

• Last Frost Date: April 15
• First Frost Date: October 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 180

USDA Zone 6

• Last Frost Date: April 15
• First Frost Date: October 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 180

USDA Zone 7

• Last Frost Date: April 15
• First Frost Date: October 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 180

USDA Zone 8

• Last Frost Date: March 15
• First Frost Date: November 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 240

USDA Zone 9

• Last Frost Date: February 15
• First Frost Date: December 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 300

USDA Zone 10

• Last Frost Date: January 31
• First Frost Date: December 15
• Minimum Number of Frost-Free Days: 315

USDA Zone 11

• Last Frost Date: No Frost
• First Frost Date: No Frost
• Minimum Number of Frost
• Free Days: 365

One of the most important considerations in choosing perennial plants for any garden is hardiness zones. The U.S. Department of Agriculture developed and maintains a USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map that assigns a numerical value and color to every area of the United States. Plant pages provide the generally recommended Hardiness Zones for each plant.

A plant hardiness zone is a geographical area defined by its average minimum winter temperature. This information helps gardeners and growers determine which plants are most likely to survive the winter in a particular location. The zone information provided on this website is strictly a guideline.

Important to Note: Zone information is a general guideline. Local conditions like snow cover, humidity, and microclimates can significantly impact a plant's survival.

The zone map used on this website is based on the 1990 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. This map is the foundation for the plant information provided.

Zones listed in parentheses ( ) indicate marginal hardiness. A plant in a parenthesized zone might survive with extra protection, but it's not guaranteed to thrive. For example, a plant listed as zone (4)5-9 can potentially survive in zone 4 with careful protection, but it will likely flourish in zones 5 through 9.

Zone 3: -40°F to -30°F

• Most plants native to the U.S. are found within Zones 3 to 10; the toughest of plants can withstand all these zones. Zone 3 plants can withstand cold temperatures of -40°F to -30°F. The upper Midwest states and some northeast states hold most of Zone 3, such as northern parts of Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Wyoming, New York, and Maine.
• When to Plant: Mid-May

 Zone 4: -30°F to -20°F

• Zone 4 plants can withstand minimum chill temperatures from -30°F to -20°F. You can find this zone in Montana, Wyoming, North Dakota, South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and northern areas of Eastern states such as New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.
• When to Plant: Mid-May

 Zone 5: -20°F to -10°F

• This zone is another common one for the Midwest and Northeastern states, where humidity stays high during the summers, and winters can reach as low as -20°F to -10°F. You can find Zone 5 in Colorado, Utah, Nebraska, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Pennsylvania, and New York.
• When to Plant: Mid-April

 Zone 6: -10°F to 0°F

• It is the middle of the road for Zone 6. You can find this zone in Pacific Northwest states, such as Washington and Oregon, and stretching over the middle of the U.S. in states such as Kansas, Missouri, Kentucky, Illinois, New Mexico, and all the way through Ohio. Plants in this zone can withstand temperatures of -10°F to 0°F.
• When to Plant: Mid-April

 Zone 7: 0°F to 10°F

• Winters only occasionally hit the negatives in this zone. Plants in Zone 7 can handle temperatures of 0°F to 10°F. You can find this zone in some parts of Washington and Oregon and down through upper Texas, Oklahoma, and most of the way through Virginia and North Carolina.
• When to Plant: Mid-April

 Zone 8: 10°F to 20°F

• Things are starting to heat up in Zone 8. In this zone, native plants love the warmth. Also, plants have a longer growing season in Zone 8. You can find this zone in part of the West Coast and most of the South, such as Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, and the Carolinas, and along the coast of Virginia.
• When to Plant: Mid-March

 Zone 9: 20°F to 30°F

• Hot and heavy temperatures are hitting this zone. These plants can withstand temperatures as low as 20°F to 30°F but thrive in 70°F-90°F temperatures. You can find Zone 9 consuming California's landscape, along with southern Texas, Louisiana, and Florida.
• When to Plant: Mid-February

 Zone 10: 30°F to 40°F

• Zone 10 sees some of the hottest temperatures in the U.S., prevalent in tropical places such as Southern California, extreme-southern Texas, and southern Florida. Plants in this zone can handle temperatures as low as 30°F to 40°F.
• When to Plant: Mid-January

The ideal spacing for perennials depends on their mature size.  

Here's a general guideline:

• Small perennials (under 1 foot): 6-12 inches apart  
• Medium perennials (1-2 feet): 12-18 inches apart
• Tall perennials (over 2 feet): 18-36 inches apart  

Factors to Consider:

• Mature size: Always check the plant tag or do online research to determine the plant's full-grown dimensions.
• Growth habit: Some plants spread more than others. Consider their growth pattern when spacing.  
• Desired effect: If you want a fuller look faster, you can plant slightly closer initially, but be prepared to thin them out later.
• Soil conditions: Richer soil can promote faster growth, so you might need to adjust spacing accordingly.

Additional Tips:

• Visualize the mature plants: Imagine how big each plant will be when fully grown and space accordingly.
• Consider companion planting: Some plants complement each other and can be planted closer together.
• Allow for air circulation: Proper spacing helps prevent diseases by allowing good airflow.  

Generally, perennials need about an inch of water per week. This can come from rain or supplemental watering.

Key factors affecting watering frequency:

• Climate: Hot, dry climates require more frequent watering.  
• Soil type: Sandy soil drains quickly, needing more frequent watering than clay soil.  
• Plant type: Some perennials are more drought-tolerant than others.  
• Plant age: Newly planted perennials need more frequent watering to establish roots.  

Watering tips:

• Deep watering: Instead of frequent shallow watering, aim for deep, infrequent watering to encourage deep root growth.  
• Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch around your perennials to help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.  
• Check soil moisture: Stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it's dry, it's time to water.  
• Monitor plant health: Watch for signs of underwatering (wilting, yellowing leaves) or overwatering (yellowing leaves, root rot).

Remember, it's better to underwater than overwater. Perennials often tolerate dry spells better than soggy roots.

Both fertilizer and compost can benefit your perennials, but the approach depends on your soil's condition and the specific needs of your plants.

Compost: A Natural Boost

• Benefits: Compost improves soil structure, retains moisture, and provides essential nutrients.

It's a gentle and long-lasting way to enhance your garden.  

• Application: Apply a 2-inch layer of compost around your perennials in spring. You can also incorporate it into the soil before planting.  

Fertilizer: Targeted Nutrition

• Benefits: Fertilizer provides specific nutrients to address deficiencies. However, it's easy to over-fertilize, which can harm your plants.
• Application: Use a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) sparingly, typically once or twice a year in early spring. Avoid fertilizing late in the season, as it can encourage new growth that won't harden off before winter.  

Important Considerations:

• Soil testing: Get your soil tested to determine nutrient levels before applying fertilizer.
• Plant needs: Some perennials are heavy feeders (like peonies), while others prefer less-fertile soil.  
• Organic vs. synthetic: Choose organic or synthetic fertilizers based on your preferences and garden philosophy.

Generally, healthy soil enriched with compost is sufficient for most perennials. Fertilizer should be used as a supplement if needed.

Here are some perennial plants that are excellent choices for creating vibrant and low-maintenance edging in your garden:

For Sunny Locations:

• Lavender: Known for its fragrant purple flowers and silvery-gray foliage.
• Daylilies: Offer a wide variety of colors and bloom throughout the summer.
• Coreopsis: Bright, cheerful blooms in yellow, orange, and pink.
• Dianthus: Fragrant flowers in a range of colors, including pink, red, and white.
• Veronica: Spikes of small, blue flowers that attract pollinators.

For Shaded Areas:

• Hostas: Large, showy leaves in various colors and patterns.
• Astilbe: Feathery plumes of flowers in pink, white, or purple.
• Heucheras: Colorful foliage in shades of green, purple, and orange.
• Epimediums: Tiny, delicate flowers and attractive foliage.
• Bergenia: Large, leathery leaves and clusters of pink flowers.

For Low-Maintenance Edging:

• Liriope: Evergreen foliage with spikes of purple flowers.
• Creeping Thyme: Low-growing, fragrant ground cover.
• Sedums: Succulent plants with colorful foliage and flowers.
• Lamb's Ears: Soft, fuzzy leaves and spikes of purple flowers.
• Vinca Minor: Evergreen ground cover with blue or purple flowers.

Tips for Choosing Edging Plants:

• Consider the height and spread of the plants. Shorter plants are ideal for edging, while taller ones can be used for creating a more dramatic effect.
• Think about the color scheme. Choose plants with complementary or contrasting colors to create a visually appealing border.
• Factor in the soil conditions. Some plants prefer full sun and well-draining soil, while others thrive in shade and moist conditions.
• Consider the maintenance requirements. If you're looking for a low-maintenance option, choose plants that are drought-tolerant and require minimal pruning.

By carefully selecting the right perennial plants, you can create a beautiful and colorful edging that will enhance the overall appearance of your garden.

Creating a Low-Maintenance Garden with Perennials

Perennials are a fantastic choice for a low-maintenance garden. Once established, they come back year after year with minimal care. Here's how to create a beautiful and hassle-free space:  

Choosing the Right Perennials

• Native plants: These are adapted to your local climate and soil conditions, often requiring less care.  
• Drought-tolerant varieties: Opt for plants that can withstand periods of dry weather.  
• Low-maintenance characteristics: Look for perennials that are known for their ability to thrive with minimal intervention.  

Planning Your Garden

• Consider your climate and soil: Choose plants that suit your specific growing conditions.  
• Group plants with similar needs: This simplifies care and ensures optimal growth.  
• Incorporate a variety of heights and textures: Create visual interest throughout the seasons.  

Planting and Care

• Proper soil preparation: Ensure good drainage and enrich the soil with compost.
• Spacing plants correctly: Allow adequate room for growth and air circulation.
• Mulching: Helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.  
• Regular deadheading: Promotes continuous blooming and prevents self-seeding.  
• Dividing perennials: Every few years, divide overcrowded plants to rejuvenate them.  

Low-Maintenance Perennial Ideas

• Groundcovers: Create a colorful and low-maintenance carpet with options like creeping phlox, vinca minor, or sedum.
• Grasses: Ornamental grasses add texture and movement with minimal care. Consider varieties like fescue, switchgrass, or miscanthus.  
• Rock gardens: Combine drought-tolerant perennials with stones for a low-maintenance and visually appealing space.
• Container gardens: Use large pots for portability and easier management of perennials.

Remember: Patience is key. While perennials offer low maintenance in the long run, they may require more attention in their first year as they establish themselves.

Perennials are excellent for creating a pollinator-friendly garden.

Here are some tips:  

Choose the Right Plants

• Native plants: These are often the best choice as pollinators have evolved with them.  
• Variety: Offer a diverse range of flowers in different shapes, colors, and heights to attract different pollinators.  
• Continuous bloom: Select perennials that flower at different times to provide a constant food source.  
• Pollen and nectar-rich: Opt for plants known for their abundant pollen and nectar.  

Create a Pollinator-Friendly Habitat

• Provide shelter: Offer nesting sites for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. This can include leaving dead stems standing over winter, providing bee houses, or creating small brush piles.  
• Avoid pesticides: Pesticides can harm pollinators. Use organic methods for pest control.  
• Water source: A shallow dish of water with pebbles for landing can be a lifesaver for pollinators.  

Perennial Recommendations for Pollinators

• Coneflowers (Echinacea): Beloved by bees, butterflies, and birds.
• Milkweed (Asclepias): Essential for monarch butterflies.  
• Salvia: A favorite of hummingbirds and bees.  
• Lavender: Attracts bees and butterflies with its fragrant flowers.  
• Aster: Provides late-season nectar for pollinators.  
• Goldenrod: Often misunderstood, it's a crucial food source for many pollinators.  

Remember: It takes time to establish a pollinator-friendly garden. Be patient and enjoy watching the diversity of pollinators that visit your space.

Perennials can be powerful allies in the fight against soil erosion.

Their extensive root systems act like anchors, holding the soil firmly in place. This is especially important on slopes or areas prone to heavy rainfall. Additionally, the foliage of perennials helps to slow down the impact of raindrops, preventing soil particles from being washed away.  

Key benefits of using perennials for erosion control:

• Strong root systems: These penetrate deep into the soil, providing stability.  
• Ground cover: Perennials create a protective layer that shields the soil from the elements.
• Improved water infiltration: Their foliage helps slow down rainwater, allowing it to soak into the ground instead of running off.  
• Biodiversity: Many erosion-control perennials attract beneficial insects and wildlife.  

Choosing the Right Perennials

When selecting perennials for erosion control, consider the following:

• Native species: These are often well-adapted to local conditions and have strong root systems.  
• Groundcovers: Plants like creeping phlox, clover, or sedum can form dense mats to protect the soil.  
• Grasses: Fescue, switchgrass, and other perennial grasses offer excellent erosion control.  
• Deep-rooted perennials: Plants with deep roots, such as coneflowers or black-eyed Susans, can help stabilize slopes.

By carefully selecting and planting perennials, you can create a beautiful and environmentally friendly garden that helps protect the soil.  

Perennials, while generally hardy, are susceptible to their fair share of pests and diseases.

Here are some common culprits:  

Common Pests

• Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from plants.  
• Spider mites: Tiny arachnids that cause yellowing and stippling of leaves.  
• Slugs and snails: These slimy creatures can devour foliage.  
• Japanese beetles: These metallic green beetles chew on leaves and flowers.  
• Mealybugs: Soft-bodied insects covered in white, cottony wax.
• Scale insects: Small, immobile insects that suck sap.  

Common Diseases

• Powdery mildew: A white, powdery coating on leaves.  
• Rust: Orange or brown spots on leaves and stems.
• Black spot: Black spots on rose leaves.  
• Botrytis blight: Gray mold that can affect various plants.  
• Crown rot: A fungal disease that attacks the base of the plant.  

Note: The specific pests and diseases that affect your perennials will depend on your geographic location and the types of plants you grow.

Prevention and Control

• Proper plant spacing: Good air circulation can help prevent diseases.
• Watering in the morning: Avoid wet leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases.  
• Removing infected plant parts: This can help prevent the spread of diseases.  
• Using organic pest control methods: Consider options like insecticidal soap, neem oil, or beneficial insects.

Dealing with hungry deer and rabbits can be frustrating, but there are several strategies to protect your perennials:

Repellents

• Commercial repellents: Many products are available, often containing scents that deter deer and rabbits. However, their effectiveness can vary, and repeated applications might be necessary.  
• Homemade repellents: Some gardeners swear by using strong-smelling substances like garlic, hot pepper spray, or even human hair. While these methods can be effective, consistency is key.  

Physical Barriers

• Fencing: A tall fence can be an effective deterrent, but it can be costly and visually intrusive.
• Netting: Covering your garden with netting can protect plants from both deer and rabbits.
• Row covers: These can be used to protect individual plants or small areas.
• Scarecrows: While not always foolproof, scarecrows can sometimes deter animals.

Plant Selection

• Deer and rabbit-resistant plants: Consider planting species that are less appealing to these creatures. Research your local area to find suitable options.

Other Considerations

• Timing: Deer and rabbits are often more active at dawn and dusk. Protecting vulnerable plants during these times can be particularly effective.  
• Habitat management: Reducing food sources and cover for these animals in your yard can help deter them.

The general rule of thumb for fall cleanup is: less is more. While it is tempting to tidy up the garden completely, leaving some natural debris can actually benefit some perennials.

When to Cut Back

• Wait for a hard frost: This ensures the plant has fully sent energy back to its roots for spring growth.
• Disease prevention: If a plant suffered from a disease like powdery mildew or rust, cut it back to the ground to prevent it from spreading.
• Overly aggressive plants: Some perennials, like mint or monarda, can become invasive. Cut them back to control their spread.

What to Leave Standing

• Winter interest: Some plants offer beautiful seed heads or stems that provide visual interest throughout the winter.
• Wildlife habitat: Leaving standing stems can provide shelter and food for beneficial insects and birds.
• Protection: In colder climates, leaving foliage can act as a natural mulch, protecting the crown of the plant.  

Specific Plants

• Hostas: Cut back after a hard frost to prevent slug problems.
• Peonies: Cut back to the ground to prevent fungal diseases.
• Ornamental grasses: Leave standing for winter interest, then cut back in late winter or early spring.
• Sedums: Leave standing for winter interest, then cut back in spring.

Additional Tips

• Cleanliness: Remove any diseased plant material and dispose of it properly to prevent the spread of diseases.
• Mulching: After cutting back, consider adding a layer of mulch to protect plant crowns and improve soil health.
• Pruning: Avoid heavy pruning in the fall. Focus on removing dead or diseased wood.

Preparing your perennial garden for winter ensures its health and longevity. Here are the essential general steps:

Clean Up

• Cut back dead foliage: Remove diseased or insect-infested plant parts to prevent problems next year.
• Leave some stems: Many beneficial insects overwinter in hollow stems, so consider leaving some standing for wildlife.
• Collect debris: Clear away fallen leaves and other debris to prevent rot and diseases.

Mulch

• Protect plant crowns: Apply a layer of mulch (2-3 inches) to insulate plant crowns and prevent frost heave.
• Choose the right mulch: Leaves, compost, or wood chips are good options. Avoid heavy mulch that can smother plants.

Protect Tender Plants

• Cover delicate perennials: If you live in a harsh climate, consider covering tender plants with burlap or frost cloth.
• Relocate indoors: Bring tender potted perennials indoors to protect them from freezing temperatures.

Additional Tips

• Consider your climate: The severity of your winter will determine the level of protection your perennials need.
• Check on plants: Periodically check your garden for signs of damage or pests.
• Plan for spring: As you clean up, start planning for next year's garden.

By following these general steps will help your perennial garden survive the winter and thrive in the spring.

It is crucial to be aware of the potential dangers of certain perennial plants to your pets. Ingestion of toxic plants can lead to a variety of health problems, including vomiting, diarrhea, and even more severe symptoms. Here are some common perennial plants that are toxic to pets:  

• Lily: While beautiful, lilies are extremely toxic to cats. Ingestion can lead to kidney failure.  
• Oleander: This plant is toxic to both dogs and cats. It can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and irregular heartbeat.  
• Azalea: Azaleas contain toxins that can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and even death in pets.  
• Wisteria: All parts of the wisteria plant are toxic to pets. Ingestion can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and difficulty breathing.  
• Castor Bean Plant: The castor bean plant contains a toxin that can be fatal to pets.  
• Yew: All parts of the yew plant are toxic to pets, especially the needles and seeds. Ingestion can lead to cardiac arrest.  
• Tulip: The bulbs of tulips can be toxic to pets, causing gastrointestinal upset.
• Narcissus: Narcissus bulbs are also toxic to pets, leading to vomiting, diarrhea, and heart problems.
• Hyacinth: Like tulips and narcissus, hyacinth bulbs can be harmful to pets.
• Foxglove: Foxglove is toxic to both dogs and cats. It can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and irregular heartbeat.
• Rhubarb: While the stalks of rhubarb are edible for humans, the leaves are toxic to pets.

Less Common Toxic Plants

• Anemone: Anemones can cause gastrointestinal upset in pets.
• Buttercup: Buttercups contain toxins that can irritate the mouth and digestive tract of pets.
• Poppy: The seeds of poppies can be toxic to pets.
• Lantana: Lantana berries are toxic to pets, causing vomiting, diarrhea, and liver damage.
• Sago Palm: While not a true palm, the sago palm is highly toxic to pets, especially dogs. Ingestion can lead to liver failure.

Remember, this is not a complete list. Many other plants can also be harmful to pets, depending on the species and individual pet. If you have any concerns about your pet's safety, it is always best to consult with a veterinarian or animal poison control center.