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Planting Care & Guides

Gardeners have a saying about planting perennials: “The first year, they sleep; the second year, they creep; and the third year, they leap.” The best tip for successful planting is simple, “Right plant, right place.” If you want a perennial to survive and grow, the plant must tolerate year-round conditions in your zone including lowest and highest temperatures, the amount of rainfall it receives and appropriate amount of sunshine. For example, if you are in Zone 5 - any plant that is Zone 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1 could be a perennial in your area. Plants rated only for zone for 6 or higher hardiness should be considered as an annual.  Specific areas of your yard may be hot spots and tolerate one zone higher.

We hope you use the following information as a starting point, recognizing that growing practices vary from region to region. What works for one gardener does not always work for the next as there are countless variables that enter into the equation. 

When your plant arrives, remove from the shipping box immediately. If any roots are frozen (some varieties are on occasion stored in coolers), allow to thaw slowly before handling.

If it is a potted plant, immediately unpack, discard any packing material clinging to the leaves or soil. Cut any netting away, pulling the netting off may cause damage to foliage. Place them in an environment conducive to their needs and/or weather conditions and water thoroughly. If you cannot plant it within a few days, place the flat in a lightly shaded, protected area and water regularly.

 If it is a bare root plant (no soil around the roots and trimmed leaves), plant bare roots as soon as possible. Immediately unpack, discard any packing material. Light surface mold is not unusual. This is generally harmless and does not affect plant performance. A preventative fungicide is unnecessary unless the variety is prone to fungal diseases.

 Soaking bare roots in water for at least 15 minutes is suggested.

 If you are unable to get your new plants in the ground quickly, unwrap the plants to determine if the roots are still moist. If the roots appear dry, soak them in tepid water for at least 15 minutes. Store in a cool, dry area. Do not let plants freeze. Be very careful to ensure there is no moisture on any leaves. Repeat every couple of days. until you are ready to plant it in the ground. If planting is delayed, heel them into a temporary bed. Dig a trench, lay the plants at a 45 degree angle, with roots in the trench, cover the roots with loose soil, and water well.

When you are ready to plant it, do the job as early in the day as possible. Overcast, slightly cool weather is ideal, but you can always add some temporary shade if the sun is hot. Even sun-loving plants appreciate a little shade their first few days in the ground. 

Add organic matter at every opportunity!

Adding amendments such as humus or compost at planting time is critical, but nutrients leave the soil over time, and need replenishment. Nearly all plants grow better in soil that retains moisture, drains well, and is fairly fertile. Continually work your soil and plants will grow to their fullest potential. If you are creating a new bed, till the area to a depth of about 10 inches, add a few inches of compost (typically 25% by volume), and till again. If you are planting in an established bed, work compost into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil.

Until a well balanced, aged compost bed is established, incorporate a complete fertilizer like 10-10-10 into the bed at planting. For maximum growth, a high nitrogen fertilizer like 16-4-8 may be applied every 4 to 6 weeks after planting, beginning in early spring through summer.  In early fall and winter, apply 5-10-15 at recommended rate.

Caution: Too much commercial fertilizer can "burn" plant roots.

Potted plants

1. A) Dig the hole. The hole should be dug at a depth so that 1/8 of the rootball will sit above the ground. Planting deep is a major cause of plant death. The hole should be twice as wide as the rootball.
   B) If bed has not been amended, a soil mixture of 25% to 30% compost mixed with dirt removed from the hole is generally recommended. Do not use topsoil as a soil conditioner. Mix thoroughly.
2. Carefully remove the plant from its plastic pot. If it is an Ellepot, the biodegradable paper sleeve is environmentally friendly and will decompose. Always handle the plant by its rootball. If root bound, loosen and spread roots.
3. Make sure the plant is standing straight. Fill the hole with the soil mixture; by hand, pack down the soil. Do not put soil on top of the rootball.
4. Mulch around the base of the plant. The mulch should be 2 to 3 inches deep. Be sure to pull the mulch away from the plant base to prevent disease and insect damage, especially in the South.
5. Water the plant slowly and thoroughly.
6. Prune any broken stems and branches.

The Ellepot paper holds the growing medium together, thereby protecting the roots and naturally degrades once planted, there is no need to remove the paper during planting. Planting Elle plugs -

Planting — Plugs are easy to transplant by hand. Gently grip the plant by the crown, and slowly lift the plug out of the tray. The air space between the paper sleeve and the tray makes the plug much quicker and easier to transplant than traditional plugs.
The Paper Sleeve — The paper sleeve around the plug will degrade naturally when it is potted up into a larger container, so there is no need to remove it. It makes transplanting much easier and also helps to maintain the integrity of the root ball. This results in less transplant shock and more uniform growth for the plants.
Potting Soil — Use a well-drained potting soil which contains 40%-60% bark content. 
Planting level — When planting Elle Plugs, the top of the Elle Plug should be about ¼” below the soil line.

The root ball of the twenty count flat Elle plug is 2.75" wide and 3.25" tall. The root ball of the thirty count flat Elle plug is 2" wide and 3" tall. The size of the plants of both sizes depends on individual plant characteristics.

Bare Root Planting Instructions

1. Place just the roots in water to soak for one to four hours
2. A) Dig shallow, wide planting hole. The hole should be almost twice as wide as the root system and about as deep as the roots are long. Planting deep is a major cause of plant death.
   B) If bed has not been amended, a soil mixture of 25% to 30% compost mixed with dirt removed from the hole is generally recommended. Do not use topsoil as a soil conditioner. Mix thoroughly.
3. Mound soil in the bottom of the hole so that the peak reaches just about ground level
4. Set the plant so the crown (the part between roots and where stems will emerge) sits at or just below the soil line. Spread the roots so they cascade over the mound. Backfill with soil mix; by hand, pack down the soil.

5. Make sure the plant is standing straight and the crown is in proper position to soil level.
6. Mulch around the base of the plant. The mulch should be 2 to 3 inches deep. Be sure to pull the mulch away from the plant to prevent disease and insect damage, especially in the South.
7. Water slowly and thoroughly.
8. Prune any broken stems and branches.

Keep plants watered during their first season, even drought tolerant plants. A weekly deep soaking will encourage the root system. It is best to water early in the day, giving foliage a chance to dry out before evening hours - to reduce disease possibilities and crown rot. Apply a layer of compost each spring to provide nutrients and maintain soil health. Beyond that, most perennials need little supplemental fertilizer.

• Agastache - Crown should be planted even with soil line.
• Allium - Place crown just at or slightly below soil level.
• Amsonia - Place the crown about one half inch below the soil surface.
• Aquilegia - Place crown at soil level. 
• Artemisia - Place crown just below soil line.
• Asclepias - Plant 'high' so crown protrudes above soil line for bare root.
• Astilbe - Plant astilbe so the crown of the plant sits just below the soil line.
• Baptisia - Plant crown just below soil surface for bare root.
• Belamcanda - Plant bare root tubers slightly below the soil line.
• Buddleia - Plant so the crown is at least an inch above the normal soil level. Mound some of the soil up around the crown to create a small hill that slopes away from the plant to assist water drainage.
• Calamagrostis - Plant the crown level with the soil line.
• Campanula - Plant the crown level with the soil line.
• Clematis - Dig a hole that is deeper than the root ball, and then position the plant’s crown about 2" below the soil line.
• Convallaria - Dig a hole deep enough for the roots and situate the plant with the crown about an inch below the soil surface.
• Coreopsis - Plant the crown level with the soil line.
• Crocosmia - 3-6 inches below soil line.
• Delphinium - Place crown at or just below soil surface.
• Dicentra - Place the crown of the plant about 1” below the surrounding soil.
• Echinacea - Plant crown even with the soil line.
• Echinops - Plant bare root with the crown at the soil line.
• Epimedium - Crown should be planted slightly below soil line.
• Eucomis - Plant the bulb 2.5 times the depth of the bulb.
• Euphorbia - Crown should be planted even with soil line.
• Geranium - Bare root crown slightly below soil line.
• Gypsophila - Place crown at or slightly higher than the soil level.
• Helictotrichon - The crown (where the roots meet the plant) should be just slightly below the soil line.
• Heliopsis - Plant crown even with soil line.
• Hemerocallis / Daylilies - Set the daylily in the hole with the crown of the plant is 1” below the soil line.
• Hibiscus - Crown should be at or just above soil level.
• Hostas - Position the crown 1” below the natural soil line.
• Iberis - Place crown just below soil surface.
• Iris - Plant the crown about an inch below the soil surface. When planting bearded iris, the rhizomes should be positioned horizontally and remain partially exposed to the sun. For other types, position the crown of the plant about 1½” below the soil surface. Bulbs should be planted 4 to 5” deep, depending on type.
• Kniphofia - Position the crown at or just slightly below the soil line. If the crown is planted too deeply it will be vulnerable to rot.
• Lagerstroemia - Plant crown even with soil line.
• Liatrus - Plant bare root corms with the top right at the soil surface, just barely covered with soil.
• Ligularia - Plant crown even with soil line.
• Monarda - Plant crowns at soil level or just below.
• Nepeta - Place crown of plant just below soil level.
• Pennisetum - Place crown at the soil level.
• Peonies - Set peony root in the hole so the eyes (the growing tips) are positioned no more than 1” below the soil line. When peonies are planted too deeply, the plants will grow but may refuse to bloom. Cover the root with soil and water as needed.
• Perovskia - Plant bare root crown slightly below soil line.
• Phlox - Place the crown at the soil line.
• Platycodon - Tap root needs to be planted high. The upper bulkier part of the root should protrude about 1 inch above the soil line once the soil settles.
• Polygonatum - Eyes should be slightly below the soil line.
• Rudbeckia - Place crown just below soil surface.
• Salvia - Plant crown even with soil level.
• Sedum - Place crown just at or below soil level.
• Sempervivum - Place crown at soil level.
• Sisyrinchium - Place crown at soil level.
• Thymus - Plant bare root with foliage on the top of the soil and fine root system underneath.
• Tradescantia - Plant crown slightly below the soil line.
• Veronica - Place bareroot at soil level or slightly higher.
• Yucca - Plant with the crown at soil line. Tubers should not be exposed.

 Plants to Grow Dry

Aquilegia, Amsonia, Asclepias tuberosa, Centaurea, Corydalis, Dwarf Iris, Echinacea, Gaura, Iberis, Lavandula, Lewisia, Lupines, Oenothera, Perovskia, Platycodon, Stachys, Verbascum, and Yucca. It is very important to water these varieties infrequently. Plant the above varieties in a well-drained media, water in thoroughly after planting; water lightly thereafter.

Plants to Grow Wet
Acorus, Astilbe, Cimicifuga, Dicentra, Iris ensata, Iris pseudacorus, Iris sibirica, and Trollius. These plants are unforgiving if allowed to dry out. Leaves will scorch and regrowth will be slow.

Deadheading- Pinching and pruning perennials will help keep them attractive and encourage rebloom.

 After poor bed preparation and / or planting, the four (4) most common plant issues -

Too little fertilizer

Too much fertilizer

Too little water

Too much water

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